Larry M writes.....

 "Can you show your bandsaw set up that allows you to resaw to a 1/32"?

Thanks for the question, Larry.  I'll try.

But first a couple photos of Annie's completed "tiled" floor.

Beautiful

Bandsaw.  Before we get to that, we must have the dimension of the kerf of the blade.  This is how I do that and to give credit, I got this method from John when he owned BridgeCity Tools.

Make a cut with the blade in question and stop after a bit.

Cut off with the saw of your choice where the blue line is

Glue that piece back onto the larger piece.

Now using the method of your choice, measure the difference of the step.  Here I'm using an analogue gauge. The arrow is pointing to the vernier scale showing it to be .048".  That is the kerf of this particular blade.

Onto the saw.  I'm using right now a carbide 1" blade from Laguna Tools on an Italian made 5 horsepower saw, the important two items being the side table extension that's bolted to the saw and the incremental fence on that.  Normally there would also be an outfeed table but at the moment, Annie's kiln is there.

The incremental fence uses a 32 inch pitch screw that allows the fence to move in exact and repeatable 1/32" steps.  Additionally, the fence uses a half nut with that wheel to be able to move the fence in precise (or is it accurate) dimensions.

So rather than setting the fence let's say 1/32" away from the blade and trying to cut by trapping that 1/32" between the blade and fence, I reverse that. The major portion of the wood is against the fence and the 1/32" is free to come off the blade.

After each cut, you move the fence toward the blade the width of the kerf plus let's say, 1/32".  So in my case with this blade each time I advance the fence by 5/64" or .078".   The incremental fence is the key to that.

I can resaw 16" with this bandsaw so I have a tall fence that moves with the incremental and then gets bolted down to the bandsaw.  It can not be too rigid.  Not shown here but I also use support pieces of wood at the top of the fence that are triangulated back down to the table and clamped there so there's no movement at the top of the fence.

And then on the other side I have a tall set of wheels with springs that push the wood against the fence

There's another set of wheels for the outcut that are far enough away from the blade as to not impact the cut but insures the wood remains against the fence.

I have another shorter version of this for cuts less than maximum.  I didn't show it with the clamps that's used to keep it in position.

  

And that's that.  Incremental fence to the right of the blade, accurate knowledge of the kerf and a rigid system of keeping the wood going through the blade without wavering.

Thanks Larry M for the question!

Bonus pics with warm colors!  Early morning light on the studio, on the horn from the Faroe Islands and hanging light reflections in copper.